When to prune roses?

[pk]

I have a rose bush that is quite large. It keeps growing even though I have tried to move it several times. It wants to be in this one place that is the wrong place and comes back every year.

The last 2 years I pretty much left it on it's own but it really is over grown and in my way. I was wondering if it would be ok if it was pruned to a few inches from the ground now in the late summer? Or do you prune roses in the Spring?

It is some type of a wild pink rose that can grow quite tall. I have however noticed that this year it bloomed around early June with beautiful flowers only lasting a short time and never rebloomed this year. Could be from my hacking on it in the past or from digging it up a few times. lol

I love roses, they smell wonderful, and are quite attractive but I hate the thorns! And this bush is quite close to where I park and by our back door so you have to be careful walking around it to get into the van.

Any suggestions as to whether I can cut it down now? I don't want to kill it..just want to get it out of my way for the rest of the season.

thanks,

pk

[CarolsCritterCare]

Picture??

Carol

[pk]

Picture??

I am having some computer issues right now and not on my regular computer with my photos etc...and besides the bush in not in bloom so you cannot see the flowers.

pk

[CarolsCritterCare]

too bad. It sounds real pretty.

Carol

[AJE]

Originally Posted by pk

I have a rose bush that is quite large. It keeps growing even though I have tried to move it several times. It wants to be in this one place that is the wrong place and comes back every year.

Any suggestions as to whether I can cut it down now? I don't want to kill it..just want to get it out of my way for the rest of the season.

thanks,

pk

Why do we prune roses?

There are several reasons we prune modern roses. Pruning allows us to shape roses to desirable heights and size characteristics to compliment our garden. We can prune to encourage the production of large, long-stemmed flowers from our hybrid teas or smaller but more abundant clusters from our floribundas.

Proper pruning also helps to create a healthy rose by removing the 3 –D's; dead, diseased and damaged canes. By thinning canes from the interior of the plant air circulation is increased. This decreases the likelihood of some common fungal ailments such as mildew. By removing dead or damaged canes we increase the overall well-being and beauty of our roses.

These general pruning recommendations are most applicable to hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora modern roses. Some of these varieties have special needs where consulting a rosarian at a garden center may be beneficial. The American Rose Society (Roses | American Rose Society | Growing Roses) also has a consulting rosarian program available online. This resource allows you to find a rosarian in your area and correspond by email with your questions. Climbers, miniatures, ramblers and heirloom varieties have different pruning requirements and techniques.

When should we prune our roses?

There are guidelines, not rules, for when to prune your roses. Typically you should wait until after the last frost before pruning. This could be as early January in warm climates or as late as May in areas subject to a late frost.

Pruning a little late is not as tragic as cutting your plants back too early, causing them to suffer damage from a late winter freeze. In areas prone to severe winter winds you may need to partially prune large bushes back at the beginning of the season before covering for winter. This will reduce the chances of the entire plant being lost if several canes break off at the base of the plant.

What tools do I need?

Pruning roses does not require any specialized tools. The main cutting tool is a good pair of bypass pruning shears. Don't use anvil shears because in some cases they can cause damage to the plant. Bypass pruning shears make a cleaner cut which is beneficial when making precise cuts near a bud eye.

A pair of long handled bypass loppers is necessary for large canes. The long handles provide extra leverage necessary to cut thick old growth. In some cases a pruning saw may also be needed.

Protective clothing should be worn to avoid injury from thorns. A good pair of rose gloves will protect your hands and forearms from cuts. Wearing a long sleeved shirt and long pants is also recommended.

What do I cut?

Before you begin to prune think about the overall shape you are seeking for your roses. For many roses and gardens the classic “urn” shape is desired. This shape promotes an appealing, full shape. It also allows for an open center creating better air circulation within the bush.

Start by removing all dead branches and canes. Healthy growth will generally appear green or red where dead canes will generally turn gray or brown. As you cut into the canes if the pith is dry and brown continue cutting further down until you reach a green or cream color. Cut the canes low on the plant, as near to the base or bud union a possible. Also remove damaged canes and ones that cross or rub on other healthy growth.

Now we can start making the main pruning cuts on healthy stock. These cuts should be made about ¼” above a bud eye and at a 45 degree angle. The bud eye should be facing outward or in the desired direction of growth.

Remove all branches thinner that a pencil. With floribundas you can leave some smaller branches. You want branches of sufficient size to support your new spring growth. While pruning remember to keep the desired finished shape in mind.

How much do I prune?

The amount of pruning depends on the characteristics you desire of your rose during the blooming season. For more abundant blooms on smaller stems you may choose a lighter pruning. Leave most of the canes and only prune them back about 30%. You still need to remove very small branches and clean up the center of the plant.

Medium pruning general removes more foliage, leaving up to 8 – 10 well placed canes, fewer on hybrid tea roses. The canes should be reduced to 1/3 to ½ of their original height. This amount of pruning will generally work well for most healthy roses.

In some cases a heavy pruning is desired. You may have damage from a severe winter or a bush you cannot get under control with medium pruning. Make sure to cut back to wood to where the center or pith is healthy, living wood. Heavy pruning produces fewer but larger flowers or longer stems.

What else should I do?

You should also remove suckers, or rootstock shooting out of the ground from below the basal break. Spraying with dormant oil will help prevent some diseases. Make sure you clean up all of the clippings from the base of the plant. Throw these away and do not add them to your mulch or compost pile. Many rose pests and diseases survive in old rose debris.

What about harvesting and cutting dead flowers during the blooming season?

During the blooming season you may want to cut some of your fragrant blooms for your home or at least remove old, spent blooms. This process is called deadheading. Deadheading encourages the plant to re-bloom.

Cuts should be made similar to pruning cuts made on canes. Find a leaflet with five or more leaves and with a bud eye pointing in the desired direction of growth. Make your cut just above this location. Remove any petals or leaves that fall into the bush or on the ground.

Make sure the branches are large enough to support the new growth. Grandifloras and large hybrid teas will need larger branches to support the weight. By pruning in this manner during the season you will enjoy new blossoms throughout summer.

What if I don't prune correctly?

Fortunately for us roses are resilient. Experiment and see what type of pruning works best with your roses. As long as you keep your rose healthy you can prune again next year and try something different.

[CarolsCritterCare]

WHEN TO PRUNE
Roses need different types and timing of pruning depending on their variety. Repeat blooming roses such as floribunda and hybrid tea roses need a heavy annual pruning that is done in the spring, just as the buds break dormancy. This could be mid-to late February near the coast to mid-April in the mountains. The best way to judge when to prune is to look at the buds; when
they begin to swell, go ahead and prune. Old-fashioned roses and climbers that bloom only once a year should be pruned immediately after flowering. Do not prune these types of roses heavily in the early spring since they bloom on wood from the previous year's growth. Dead, diseased or damaged wood on any rose should be removed as soon as it is seen.

(or just ask Anthony Zacchara PK!)

[CarolsCritterCare]

PRUNING DIFFERENT TYPES OF ROSES
Prune weak-growing varieties lightly and vigorous varieties more severely. Prune first-year plants lightly to allow them to put more energy into establishing a strong root system.
Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras: Modern reblooming roses are pruned in the early spring just as the buds begin to swell. Prune hard if you want large blooms suitable for cut flowers. This will produce fewer total blooms. In the spring, cut out all but three to five of the healthiest, most vigorous canes. Prune these canes down to 15 to 18 inches from ground level. Keep any weak, small or short stems pruned away. Generally with hybrid teas, any cane thinner than a pencil should be removed. In the late fall, prune roses back by about one-third of their height. This helps prevent breaking of canes in winter winds. Climbing Roses: Old-fashioned rambling roses and one-time spring-blooming climbers produce best shoots growing off one year-old wood, and they should not be pruned until after they flower. Cut away all weak or damaged stems and remove the oldest canes, leaving five to seven strong canes untouched. Remember that flowers are produced on stems at least one year old on most running or climbing roses. The stems that you leave will bear next year's flowers. Climbers that bloom on the current season's growth can be pruned more severely. When pruning large and tangled climbing roses, be careful not to damage healthy stems while removing the stems to be discarded. It is easier to remove most stems in sections. Old Garden Roses: Old roses do not need the hard pruning that is needed by many modern roses. Hard pruning can ruin their graceful shape and severely reduce their flowering. Preserve the informal habit of old garden roses by removing no more than one third of each bush. Generally, remove only the oldest stems that are no longer productive. Most old garden roses bloom once in a season. Prune immediately after bloom to keep old roses under control and vigorous. Leave some of the bright red hips for fall and winter color.

Miniature Roses: Ever-blooming varieties can be lightly trimmed or tip-pruned several times a year, as they flower on new
growth.

[j10asen]

Originally Posted by CarolsCritterCare

PRUNING DIFFERENT TYPES OF ROSES
Prune weak-growing varieties lightly and vigorous varieties more severely. Prune first-year plants lightly to allow them to put more energy into establishing a strong root system.
Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras: Modern reblooming roses are pruned in the early spring just as the buds begin to swell. Prune hard if you want large blooms suitable for cut flowers. This will produce fewer total blooms. In the spring, cut out all but three to five of the healthiest, most vigorous canes. Prune these canes down to 15 to 18 inches from ground level. Keep any weak, small or short stems pruned away. Generally with hybrid teas, any cane thinner than a pencil should be removed. In the late fall, prune roses back by about one-third of their height. This helps prevent breaking of canes in winter winds. Climbing Roses: Old-fashioned rambling roses and one-time spring-blooming climbers produce best shoots growing off one year-old wood, and they should not be pruned until after they flower. Cut away all weak or damaged stems and remove the oldest canes, leaving five to seven strong canes untouched. Remember that flowers are produced on stems at least one year old on most running or climbing roses. The stems that you leave will bear next year's flowers. Climbers that bloom on the current season's growth can be pruned more severely. When pruning large and tangled climbing roses, be careful not to damage healthy stems while removing the stems to be discarded. It is easier to remove most stems in sections. Old Garden Roses: Old roses do not need the hard pruning that is needed by many modern roses. Hard pruning can ruin their graceful shape and severely reduce their flowering. Preserve the informal habit of old garden roses by removing no more than one third of each bush. Generally, remove only the oldest stems that are no longer productive. Most old garden roses bloom once in a season. Prune immediately after bloom to keep old roses under control and vigorous. Leave some of the bright red hips for fall and winter color.

Miniature Roses: Ever-blooming varieties can be lightly trimmed or tip-pruned several times a year, as they flower on new
growth.

prunes have pits
roses have thorns
a woman deceived
is a woman scorned
we trim in the spring
we trim in the fall
in winter we do
nothing at all
when you prune a plant
it becomes trimmed
when you dry a prune
it becomes thin
trimming a rose
is a mystery
because I get confussed
by the methodology
one says to count
the number of leaves
the other says one third
of the plant to prepare for
it's winter sleep
but now I found
some good advice
from CarolsCritterCare
who is always nice
thanks for your advise
from your rose vine
for in spring my roses
will be healthy and fine

stoney rohde