To add a splash of color to a landscape planting of deciduous and evergreen shrubs, to brighten a perennial garden during the times between their bloom, and to add color to hanging baskets and patio planters, there is a group of plants that will fill that bill. To create a colorful display across the front of the home in window boxes and to have a roof top, container garden that would be the envy of any backyard gardener, you can use the same group of plants. These plants will provide color from springtime right up to the first killing frost of fall. In southern gardens where frost is not a growing factor these plants can bloom year round. What are these plants?
ANNUALS
They're the miracles of a flower garden. They germinate, grow, flower, and produce seed for next year before dying, all in one growing season.
Before purchasing seeds or transplants of annuals, however, explore the environment where they'll be growing. Ask yourself about the color scheme. Does it go well with the colors of the patio furniture, the awnings and trim on the house, and will they do well in the amount of light they receive? Since beauty is in the eye of the beholder, any color scheme you choose will probably be all right. Also know the light conditions, full sun vs. deep shade and all of the variable light conditions in between. Although soil type is a consideration, remember you can amend the soil to fit almost any plant species.
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Sun, partial sun or shade, filtered or dappled shade, or deep shade. Each annual has its optimum light requirement. Check garden catalogs and you'll find petunias, marigolds, salvia, New Guinea impatiens, geraniums, ageratum, verbena, and zinnia are all recommended for 6 hours or more of direct sunlight (full sun) in order to flourish with repeated blossoms. If at all possible, I plant sun-loving annuals in a location where they receive direct sun from the time it rises in the morning to at least 2:00 o'clock in the afternoon, and better yet, until the time the sun goes down at night. That's really a full-sun condition. Early morning direct sun is important for most annuals as it dries the mornings dew from the foliage and greatly reduces leaf diseases such as botrytis and rust.
One of my favorite annuals for the sun includes marigolds. Inca hybrids Yellow, Gold, Orange and Mix have had space in my garden for many years. They produce flowers 4-5 inches in diameter, on plants that are knee-high with rich, green foliage. As a border, I use them as the focal point with Janice, in Yellow, Flame, Gold, Harmony (mahogany), Tangerine, and Deep Orange blossoms on an 8" high, compact plant.
The Triploid Marigold Zenith series blooms 6 to 7 weeks after sowing and since triploids produce no seeds, all of the energy is put into making more flowers all season long.
Other marigolds of interest include Naughty Marietta (yellow petals with red freckles), Orange Bowl (bright orange), Golden Gate (mahogany center with gold petals), Bolero (mahogany red/gold), and Petite (mix or yellow).
Petunias are also among my other favorites for a full sun garden. In fact, they are my favorite for container culture. Fire Chief (bright red) is my favorite for the red in a patriotic planting of red, white and blue. The Countdown Series varieties Navy blue and white from a selection of grandiflora petunias, is the balance. Petunia Purple Wave, an All America Winner, is a spreading plant excellent for window boxes and hanging baskets.
Partial-sun or dappled-shade-lovers include the standard impatiens, begonias both fibrous rooted and tuberous, torenia, nierembergia, nicotiana, and bells of Ireland, primrose and coleus. For deep shade, I grow only white, light pink, and yellow flowering annuals. Dark colors such as deep pink and red do not show up well in shade. I plant them in containers and rotate them to filtered light as need be to restore their growth. By planting in containers, I can adjust their watering needs since the deep shade areas in my garden tend to be the wetter soils.
The most productive shade plants in my garden come from the impatiens series, Shady Lady. They mature at about 15" in height and produce a continual supply of brilliantly-colored flowers. Peach, white, pink, and pastels are my favorite for the shade.
Selecting the container
Proper drainage, size, and color are important considerations. Make sure the container has a hole in the bottom for drainage. Every year I come across gardeners who plant annuals in half whisky barrels without drilling one or more holes in the bottom and, without fail, the planter ends up overflowing with water. Yes, that produces a plant condition which I call "wet feet."
The container size should be adequate to accommodate the mature plants and provide adequate moisture-holding capacity. Small containers tend to dry out too quickly. On hot summer days, your plants will appreciate the extra moisture.
The color of the container is important, particularly if the planter is located in the full sun. On a hot, sunny day a dark-colored wood, ceramic, or plastic will overheat and cook the roots. If the dark-colored container must be used as the growing unit, consider double potting into a light-colored outer pot.
Selecting the soil mix
Typical garden soil, whether it be sandy, clay or a rich garden loam, will grow annuals. For sandy soil, add compost or milled sphagnum peat moss to increase moisture- and nutrient-holding capabilities. Clay soils may also be improved with the addition of quality organic matter.
For container soil, consider using a soilless mix of milled sphagnum peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite which has been pH balanced and had complete nutrients added. Soilless mixes are sterile and have no weed seeds present and they are substantially lighter in weight and easier to handle when compared to homemade garden soil mixes.
Watering tips
Annuals need a continual supply of moisture, not too wet, and not too dry.
Feeding tips
For annuals, I prepare the soil by adding a 5-10-5 or its equivalent at the rate of 3-to-5 lbs./100 sq. ft. As the season progresses I apply a water soluble 15-30-15 or equivalent according to label directions. Annuals are big eaters since they must do all of their growing in one season.
For container plants, I apply the same water-soluble plant food as above but I make sure that the brand used contains the all-important trace elements as well. The trace elements will be listed separately on the label in addition to the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Plants growing in containers can not reach out for nutrients from the nearby soil.
Grooming — the key to repeated bloom
Of any cultural practice, dead-heading (the practice of removing spent flowers before they set seed) will pay off with more than any thing you can do. Do not allow seed pods to form. At the same time you pinch off the blossoms, also pinch or prune back leggy growth. I like to garden by the old rule: "When in doubt, pinch it out."
Pest Problems
As with all gardening practices, before using a pesticide, you must first identify the "enemy" and then you can apply the appropriate pesticide. Always read the label and follow the manufacturer's recommended rates and directions.
Organic and natural controls are available for most all of the insect pests that infest annuals. [See Ralph Snodsmith's Fact Sheet "Pest Control for Flowers and Vegetables."]
http://www.gardenhotline.com/factsheet.htm
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