Can you answer YES to all these questions?? If so, then you just might be ready to adopt a dog.
Will there be someone at home to give sufficient quality time to your dog?
Have you sufficient space for a dog?
Does your lease / complex allow you to keep a dog?
Are you prepared to exercise your dog sufficiently?
Is there open space either near your home or that you are prepared to drive to where you are allowed to exercise your dog if your grounds are not big enough?
Can you afford veterinary fees?
Are you prepared to give up time to ensure that your dog has the necessary training to socialise and to learn to obey basic commands like “sit” or “stay”?
Do you know that some types of dog are more noisy or more energetic than others?
If you decide to adopt a puppy, are you prepared for some damage in your home (“toileting” accidents or chewing items, for example)
Do you have the time to groom a dog properly or can you afford grooming fees?
Can you afford to feed your dog properly? and I do mean “properly” ~ not makeshift diets, the cheapest food available of left-overs!
Do you appreciate that dogs, like people, grow old and may need special care and attention later in their lives?
If you cannot leave your dog with responsible relatives or friends when you go on holiday, can you afford the cost of boarding kennels?
Are you prepared to love and care for a dog all its life, which is often more than ten years ~ and not just when it is a cuddly puppy?
1. Do your research! Read about the different breeds' needs.
Food requirements,
Activity levels,
Aggression potentials,
Possible health risks,
Heat/cold tolerance
2. Do you have children? Stick with breeds that are known to do good with kids (labs, golden retrievers, average mutt) rather than the "pretty" or "tougher" breeds.
3. What is your family's energy level? You want a dog that will "fit into" your home rather than one that will be bored or over-stimulated (runners = labs, couch potato = larger breeds).
4. Homes with less land should stay away from working breeds (cattle dogs, terriers, shepherds, border collies) since these dogs tend to need more outside exercise to be happy inside the house.
5. If you do not have a fenced in yard, are you willing to walk the breed you choose as often and as far as they may need?
6. Shedding vs. non-shedding: most dogs shed. It is a fact of life. Some breeds with hair rather than fur shed less (like poodles, wire-hair terriers) but the hair is still there!
7. Dogs and Cats: Some breeds will be more prone to chasing the family cat (hounds, labs, working breeds). So, if you have other animals, consider the new dog's personality PRIOR to bringing him/her home.
8. If interested in large or giant breeds, know that their activity levels are not necessarily higher. These dogs behave like most dogs but their actions seem more extreme do to their size.
Will your child be knocked over easily?
Can you control an animal this size on a leash if they lunge or chase a squirrel?
9. If interested in small or toy breeds, know that they tend to be more fragile and may nip if afraid.
Will your child accidentally fall on or hurt the dog?
10. Be realistic and prepare for the worst! Many dogs are given up because their owner's had unrealistic expectations for them. Chewing, destruction of the back yard and other random chaos is part of the process; most behaviors are fixable, but you must be willing to take the time and be patient!
I got my puppy, but he keeps peeing and pooping all over my house
Try this ~ Ask the question "(pup's name), OUTSIDE?" then take him on a leash out to an area you want him to use and give the command "(name), GO POTTY" and repeat this over and over until he goes then really praise him.
Follow this procedure when he wakes, after he drinks or plays and 20 - 30 minutes after he eats.
If there is an accident simply clean it up and pay more attention next time.
For those times when you can't pay attention confine him in a with a wire pet enclosure, not the crate. Don't forget to follow the procedure when ready to let him out of confinement. Be consistent and persistent and you will get him trained.
I have several bells hanging on my doorknob. You can bell train your dog by using the potty command and then ring the bell each time as you go out the door. He should soon associate the bell with going out.
When inside, closely supervise your dog or confine him/her to a small area or crate during the training process.
Accompany your dog outside to eliminate.
Take your dog out frequently, especially after eating, sleeping, and play activities.
Immediately reward outdoor elimination with praise and treats.
Provide an area for elimination that is protected from rain and bad weather.
If caught eliminating inside, startle your dog with a loud noise and immediately take him/her outside to finish eliminating. Reward your dog immediately.
Clean soiled inside areas with enzymatic cleaners. These can be purchased at pet supply stores.
My young dog is chewing on everything in sight. What should I do
Provide chew toys that do not resemble in appearance or texture unacceptable chew items. For example, a plush toy may be similar to a pillow, child's stuffed animal or chair cushion.
Prevent access to unacceptable chew items.
Exercise and play with your dog regularly to alleviate excess energy and provide positive interaction.
Reward your dog with praise for chewing on appropriate items.
Put an aversive substance such as Bitter Apple on unacceptable chew items.
Most chewing behavior is seen in young puppies due to their strong desire to explore. As dogs mature, this desire decreases and they are less likely to be destructive.
Loud noise (construction, fireworks) and separation from the family can cause anxiety-associated destructive behavior. This can often be extreme, and may require professional help from a behavioral trainer.
Barking is a normal part of canine communications. Dogs bark for many different reasons (greeting, play, solicitation, herding, defense, distress, and alarm). The motivation for the barking behavior must be determined before an appropriate treatment plan can be developed
Social barking (Dog barks in response to other dogs barking or as part of play). Try increased non-vocal play likefetch and exercise, remove stimuli for barking.
Attention seeking ~ Dog receives something attention, treats for the barking. Try removing any reinforcement for barking.
Anxiety related, Specific stimuli such as noises, separation from owner trigger barking. Try identifying triggers and perform systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning.
Territorial defense ~ Intruders on or near territory trigger barking. Try blocking visual/auditory access to stimuli ~ systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning.
An effective way to stop nuisance barking is counter-conditioning. The creation of a new, more desirable response to a given stimulus. It is typically used with systematic desensitization. Involves rewarding the pet for "good" behavior while undergoing systematic desensitization. Systematic desensitization is the process of making a pet less reactive or sensitive to a stimulus through a graduated exposure to that stimulus.
Identify the stimulus or trigger for the unwanted behavior. Is this the withdrawal of attention?
Prevent exposure to the stimulus unless part of the training sessions.
Set up a gradient to expose the pet to the stimulus.
Expose the pet to the stimulus or trigger at levels low enough to avoid triggering the unwanted response. Low levels of attention at first
Reward the pet for "good" behavior. Some treats might be helpful in this part of the process
Gradually and incrementally increase the level of stimulus until reaching the full level of the stimulus, always keeping the stimulus below the level that triggers the unwanted response.
Your dog might have anxiety related barking and medication intervention might be considered.
Dogs are social animals and often jump up on people for attention, when excited, when playing, and as a greeting. Often this behavior is tolerated in a puppy, but as the dog gets older, it becomes annoying and possibly dangerous. Any interaction with the dog, both positive (petting) and negative (pushing away), reinforces this behavior.
Behavior modification options to consider
Train your dog to sit or lie down on command.
Condition your dog to sit or lie down when greeted. Reward him/her immediately when performed acceptably.
Keep a leash and head halter on your dog when greeting people so the jumping behavior can be corrected. Do not allow the dog to be greeted until he/she is sitting or laying down appropriately.
Turn away if the dog jumps up. Give the appropriate behavior command ("sit" or "down") and positively reward your dog when he/she responds appropriately.
Coprophagia is the ingestion of feces. Dogs are extremely attracted to the feces of all animals, as well as their own. Because coprophagy provides immediate gratification, it can be a difficult behavior to eliminate. Although coprophagy is usually a behavioral problem, there are some disease processes that can exacerbate the tendency.
They include pancreatic enzyme deficiencies and diseases and medications that cause an increased appetite. Your pet should be examined by your veterinarian for any underlying medical problems.
Behavior modification options to consider~~
Immediately clean up after your dog.
If your dog is eating his/her own feces, changing the diet may help. A high fiber diet may be helpful for some dogs, while a highly digestible, predominantly meat diet may help for others.
When walking your dog, prevent contact with feces. A wire muzzle or head halter may help, as will maintaining your dog on a short leash.
Your vet may also recommend products that can be added to the food that may discourage coprophagia
A dog or cat can be spayed or neutered anytime after 6 to 8 weeks of age, however, some vets prefer to wait until they are 4-6 months old. The main risks of the procedures at a younger age are anesthesia and creation of hypothermia (too low body temperature).
The newer anesthetics and short duration of the surgeries minimize these risks.
Spaying before the first heat cycle is recommended for female dogs to decrease the chance of mammary tumors developing later in life. After the first heat, the risk is decreased but not as much. After the second heat there is no difference in the rate of occurrence. Spaying is also recommended to eliminate the possibility of ovarian and uterine problems and unwanted pregnancies.
Neutering male dogs is recommended to help minimize testosterone (male) related unacceptable behaviors, as well as to eliminate the possibility of testicular disease, and substantially decrease the possibility of prostatic disease, perianal tumors, and perineal hernias.
Published studies report no decrease in overall growth, etc., when these procedures are performed at 4 months of age versus 6 months.
Animal behaviorists generally agree that spaying and neutering prior to sexual maturity result in more acceptable pets. Their only concern is that at 8-16 weeks of age puppies and kittens are in their "fear" period of development.
Is something wrong with my dog? He sounds like a goose honking!!
Kennel cough, AKA Canine Upper Respiratory Infection Complex (C-URI) and Canine Infectious Tracheobronchitis, is a very contagious respiratory disease of dogs that may last for several days to several weeks.
It is characterized by bouts of coughing. A number of microorganisms have been isolated from the dogs with upper respiratory disease, including viruses and bacteria.
Dogs with mild signs do not require treatment. However, a warm, draft-free environment should be provided. Vigorous exercise, collar-induced pressure on the trachea (windpipe), and excitement should be avoided as these can induce coughing.
If a dry, persistent, hacking cough is present, cough suppressants can be prescribed. Antibiotic therapy is recommended if bacterial involvement is suspected.
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