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Old 03-10-2007, 05:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Things your Bird Hopes you Know

THINGS YOUR BIRD HOPES YOU KNOW



BIRDS NEED PEOPLE FOOD! They must not live on seed alone. Feed your birds a variety of veggies, breads, meats, poultry, and dairy products. Birds that have never eaten these foods may resists ... be stubborn and don't give up.

FAVORITE SUGGESTIONS (HIGH IN VITAMINS!) BROCCOLI, KALE, SPINACH, DANDELION GREENS, MUSTARD GREENS, GREEN BEANS, TURNIPS, SWEET POTATOES, CARROTS (AND TOPS), PEAS, CORN, RED PEPPERS, TOMATOES, CHICK PEAS, APPLES, GRAPES, BANANAS, ORANGES, MELONS, APRICOTS, PEACHES, PLUMS, WATERMELON, CHEESE, SPAGHETTI, RICE, POTATOES, FRUIT JUICES. Whatever you eat, make a birdie plate for your feathered friend.
POISONOUS (Credit to Greg Harrison's Toxicology)-An abbreviated list. Avocado, apple seeds, peach pit, chocolate, amaryllis, azalea, bird of paradise, buttercup, caladium, diffenbacia, elephant's ear, english ivy, hydrangea, iris, poinsettia, potato shoots, rhododendron, rhubarb, tobacco, marijuana, mistletoe, narcissus.

DANGER! All Teflon appliances - skillets, range top drip pans, irons, ironing board covers -- Teflon emits lethal fumes that will kill your bird in minutes when it reaches a high temperature. Also, fumes from scented candies, cleaning liquids, paints, hairspray, perfumes and nail polish. (This is only a partial list).

FEATHERS: Birds have two major molts (loss of feathers) each year. New feathers grow in all year. We recommend that the wings be clipped no matter how trusting your bird is! This is a painless procedure but be careful not to cut a bloodfeather.

BLOOD FTATHERS: The growth of the feather evolves from a shaft that pushes it way through the skin. The shaft is small, with a blood vein inside. The outside is encased in a thin layer of "skin" which looks like dandruff. As the feather grows longer, it is nourished by the blood. The bird preens" the feather, removing the skin and releasing the new feather. Once fully grown, the blood recedes back into their body. If this feather breaks before the blood recedes, the feather will act as a siphon of blood out of the bird's body. You MUST pull the shaft out by holding it securely at the base of the shaft with your fingers or needle-nose pliers. Pack the hole left with KwikStop. In an emergency, cornstarch or flour will work.

BASIC HEALTH
Your bird should be erect, eyes full, nostrils clear, light breathing with no wheezing. Body should give the appearance of being full without being "fluffed up". Avoid placing your cage near a window, door, hallway or heating source; drafts can seep in or the sun can overheat your bird. Avoid temperature fluctuations! Nails must be trimmed to prevent the bird from getting caught on things. There is a "quick" in the nail (blood vein) that will bleed if cut. Always keep KwikStop on hand to induce coagulation.

Quarantine ALL NEW BIRDS for at least 30 days regardless of who you purchased them from. Have a complete medical exam performed by a competent avian doctor, including culture and possible blood work.

TOYS AND EXERCISE
Birds need stimulation!! A life of isolation, with no toys to gnaw, hang and swing from, will invite feather plucking and mental distress. In the wild, our birds fly freely all day; confined in cages, they grow obese and lethargic. Provide toys that will promote movement and curiosity. But please be careful! You must always consider the temperament of your bird. Is it an Amazon who is very active, twisting and turning? Then you must avoid chains and ropes that could strangle him. Is it a cockatoo who dissects things? Avoid objects with sharp ends that could trap his feet or beak. Or is it a parakeet who loves to swing from his mirror? Beware of the tiny clasp, if bent, it may catch their lower beak and rip the skin.

CLEANING
The droppings of your bird and the food you feed it will harbor bacteria. A dirty cage is an invitation to illness. The cage floor should contain a metal grate to prevent the bird from scavenging through the feces. Change the bedding every few days. The cage should be thoroughly cleaned with a disinfectant at least once a month. Lysol or diluted chlorine bleach can be used AFTER the cage has been cleaned with soap and water. Thoroughly rinse the soap and disinfectant off
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